The Cape of Good Hope 好望角

KITTY猫 发表于 2009-6-23 15:15:00

There is magic at the tip of Africa.
在非洲西南端有一个神奇的地方。

Standing on top of the flat surface of Table Mountain on a clear day is one of those special moments that you tuck away for safekeeping in the recesses of your mind. In the company of rock rabbits, an icy fresh sea breeze and your own thoughts 1086 meters above an Atlantic Ocean that stretches into electric blue infinity below, you feel like you're standing on top of the world. As well as its unusual shape, the mountain is known as a place of deep spiritual significance, the brooding quartzite and granite cliffs casting a protective aura over the city it has cradled for more than three and a half centuries.
晴空万里,站在平坦的桌山之顶是众多美妙时刻之一,如此美丽的画面烙在了记忆最深处,永远都不会忘记。身边不时有岩兔蹿过,清新微凉的海风抚过脸颊,想想自己正站在高过大西洋(无限蔓延的一片铁蓝)1086米的地方,顿生“会当临绝顶”的感慨。由于这座山山形奇特,因此也被赋予了一种深刻的精神意义——隐约的石英岩和花岗石悬崖以一种保卫的姿态守护这座城市近三个半世纪。

It is the presence of this iconic landmark at its rear and the ocean in front that has led Cape Town, nestled in a natural bowl between the two, to be internationally described as the most beautiful city in the world. Founded as a trading post in 1652, the settlement became an important stop-over for ships to repair and resupply on the Asan spice route. It was because of the relief felt by these weary ancient mariners when they discovered not only one of the most beautiful places on earth, but also one that had fresh food and water, that they called it the Cape of Good Hope. South Africa's oldest city, Cape Town is also known by locals as the Mother City
正是后方的这个地标以及前方的浩瀚大洋成就了开普敦——依偎在两者间的天然峡湾,也被公认为世界上最美丽的城市。1652年这里被建成一个商栈,随后逐渐成为Asan香料之路上来往船只休憩和补充给养的重要中转站。当筋疲力尽的老船员们发现这里不仅仅是世界上最美丽的地方之一,而且还有新鲜的食物和水,他们感到无比的安心和轻松,因此他们称之为好望角。南非最古老的城市——开普敦,也被当地人誉为母亲城。

Magical Mountain
神奇山脉
Table Mountain is Cape Town's top attraction for visitors. For those who are energetic it's a three-hour hike to the top, and as part of a nature reserve and a UNESCO Cape Floristic Region World Heritage Site there is an opportunity to enjoy the unique flora on the way up. More than 1400 species of plant life flourish in the area. Most people opt to go up by cable car, with its revolving floor, that zips you up in minutes. Without warning, and almost like magic, a tablecloth of clouds can float down and spill over the mountains' edge, turning your visit into a fairy tale and softening the nearby rock formations known as the Lion's Head, Signal Hill, Devil's Peak and the Twelve Apostles until they look near enough to touch. An ancient legend says the ethereal tablecloth is due to an old Afrikaner called Van Hunks who sits on Devil's Peak (adjacent to Table Mountain) having a smoking contest with the devil himself. The two keep puffing away, blowing clouds of smoke and neither ever wins.
桌山是开普敦最有吸引力的地方。精力充沛的游客只需3个小时就能登上山顶。作为自然保护区以及联合国科教文组织植物区角世界遗产的一部分,一路上可以欣赏到各种奇特的植被,大概有1400多种。大部分游客都宁愿乘坐(360度)旋转上升缆车,几分钟内就能够到达山顶。然后,毫无预兆地,甚至可以说是不可思议地,大片大片桌布似的云朵会在瞬间飘过,紧紧覆在山的四周,几乎要满溢出来,游客也仿佛进入了一个童话世界,而四周的狮头峰、信号山、魔鬼峰、十二门徒峰也似乎被这些迷幻的云朵抹去了尖锐的棱角,变得柔软起来,仿佛近在咫尺,触手可及。关于这些飘渺的桌布的来历有一个古老的传说:一个名叫范汉?克斯的南非人在魔鬼峰(在桌山附近)和一个魔鬼比赛吸烟,两个人不停地抽烟、吞云吐雾,但谁都没有赢得对方,因此,桌山上便总是云雾缭绕了。

Beaches, Oh Beaches
美丽海滩
After the altitude of the mountain, get down to sea level and head for Cape Town's legendary beaches which have earned Europe's coveted blue flag status for outstanding beaches. Watersport junkies can surf, dive, kite-surf into salty nirvana. The trendy beaches of Camps Bay, Clifton and Llandudno along the Atlantic Seaboard are right up there with the best in the world. Tanned, gym-sculptured bodies, ivory colored sand and sunsets crying out for film are all part of the attraction. It's all too perfect. That is, of course, until you step into the water. The Atlantic tides that wash the Cape are teeth-chatteringly cold - dashing in and out to cool down is about all you'll want to do.
在领略过高山美景后就来到海边,直奔开普敦传说中的海滩——获得欧洲最具价值的蓝旗称号(颁给杰出的海滩)。这里的水上运动包括海上冲浪、潜水还有冲浪风筝等等。而像大西洋沿海的坎普斯湾海滩、克里夫顿海滩、兰蒂德诺海滩这些新潮时尚的海滩都是世界闻名。日光浴、健身房里刻意锻炼出的完美身材、泛着象牙色泽的沙子以及适合电影镜头的美丽落日,这些都极具吸引力。一切都太完美了。当然,更准确的说,是在你下水之前。冲刷着海角的大西洋海浪异常寒冷——你所能做的就是不断地游进游出让自己冷静下来。

On the east coast of the Cape peninsula, you can catch a commuter train along the False Bay coastline, stopping at beaches and quaint villages. The water here is warmer than the Atlantic and draws swimmers and surfers in droves. Long Beach at Muizenberg, with its rainbow colored wooden change rooms; the antique shops, art galleries and cafes of Kalk Bay, where fishermen hawk the day's catch; and Fish Hoek, a family beach always packed with locals, are all worth exploring. The bay is also a great place for whale watching. The train line ends at the postcard village of Simon's Town, South Africa's naval base, with its main street lined with Victorian wrought iron lace facades.
在开普半岛的东海岸,你可以乘坐佛斯湾海岸线的市郊火车,逐个停留游览沿途沙滩和独特的村庄。这里的海水比大西洋的要温暖得多,游泳者和冲浪者蜂拥而至。位于梅森堡长滩上的用木头搭建的彩虹色更衣室;考克湾的旧书店、艺廊、咖啡馆以及兜售一天收获的渔民;还有当地人集聚的钓鱼镇海滩,这些都值得一看。这个海湾还是观看鲸鱼的好地方。火车终点站是风景如画的西蒙镇,也是南非的海军基地,它的主街道满是维多利亚时期的锻铁饰物。

A mile away, at Boulders Coastal Park, a colony of over 3,000 jackass penguins has nested nearby, gracefully sharing the crystal waters with human swimmers. It's a black and white living extravaganza. From Simon's Town, the road winds lazily along the craggy coastline to Cape Point and the Good Hope Nature Reserve. This is the end of the African continent, where the Atlantic and Indian Ocean meet and described by intrepid British mariner Sir Francis Drake in 1580, as "the fairest Cape in all the world".
一英里外的伯德斯海岸公园有一个3000多只娇憨的企鹅的聚居地,它们和游泳者们一起分享着晶莹剔透的海水,那里简直是一个黑白分明到极致的世界。马路从西蒙镇开始懒懒地蔓延至开普点以及好望角自然保护区。这里是非洲大陆的末端,也是大西洋和印度洋的交汇处。 1580年,英勇的英国水手弗朗西斯?德雷克爵士称其为“世界上最美丽的海角”。

Historical City
历史古城
Apart from Table Mountain and the swathe of pristine beaches, Cape Town is a city that's made for browsing. The most modern city in Africa, it's a vibrant, cosmopolitan place, and the eclectic mix of designer shops, street markets, cafes and street artists means there is something to linger over on almost every corner. Historically ancestors here were Indonesian, French, Dutch, British, German, and indigenous Bushman and Hottentot tribes, giving Cape Town its flavor. Capetonians are a breed apart, laid-back, ready to laugh at themselves and in no rush to break the stress barriers of the corporate world. This easy-going lifestyle is set amongst the historic buildings of old Cape Dutch and the English architecture of the Castle of Good Hope dating back to 1666, a fort of the first Dutch settlers and a fine example of living conditions in the city then. Across from the fort the colonial-style ochre yellow City Hall stands as beacon for photographers and history buffs alike. Few skyscrapers obscure the skyline as the city sits neatly against is majestic mountain backdrop.
除了桌山和众多天然的海岸外,开普敦也是一个天然牧业城市。作为非洲最现代的城市,它生机勃勃、非常国际化,而兼收并蓄各种设计大师风格的时装店、街边超市、咖啡馆、街头艺术家都意喻着每一个街角都会让你流连忘返。历史上,这里曾居住着印度尼西亚人、法国人、荷兰人、英国人、德国人、以及本土的澳洲丛林居民和霍顿都部族,这些都形成了开普敦独特的风情。开普敦人比较独特、懒散、喜欢自嘲,并且没有任何想要去打破全球化的障碍和压力的欲望。这种随和的生活方式就滋生于那些历史古建筑中,比如旧式开普荷建筑、源于1666年的好望英式城堡、第一个荷兰殖民者建立的堡垒都体现了那时的居住环境。穿过堡垒,如灯塔般耸立的具有殖民地风格的市政厅呈现在眼前,这座赭黄色的建筑物备受摄影师和历史狂热者的追捧。整座城市安静地蜗居在巨大的山脉中,只有少数的摩天大楼突兀地耸立云霄,模糊了天际,叫人难以分辨。

Robben Island - Symbol of Freedom
罗宾岛
One of the biggest attractions for visitors to Cape Town lies a short 30 minute boat ride from the city harbor across Table Bay. It's an island that has for almost four centuries been the place where lepers, convicts and anyone thought to be disruptive to society was banished. It is steeped in pain and suffering and went largely unknown by most South Africans for years. All that changed when the world's most famous political prisoner, Nelson Mandela, and other members of the African National Congress were imprisoned there for challenging the oppressive apartheid government of the day in the 1960s. In 1999 the island was declared a World Heritage Site. Now people flock to see the 5 square meter cell that was home to Mandela for 18 of his 27 years in prison and the "Island of Exiles" as described by author Lawrence Green, and its maximum security prison, opens a window on a past long kept hidden. Tour guides on the island are actual former political prisoners who share their stories with visitors in an insightful way, very refreshing from the usual monotone droning of guides found in other places of interest.
开普敦最吸引游客的地方之一是需从城市码头坐船半个小时穿过桌湾才能到达的罗宾岛。这个海岛有长达四个世纪的历史——麻风病者、罪犯以及任何企图分裂国家社会的人都被流放至此。这里始终都沉浸在一片痛楚和苦难中,并且长期以来不为大多数南非人所知。直到20世纪60年代,全世界最著名的政治犯纳尔逊?曼德拉和其它非洲国会成员因反抗政府的种族隔离压迫而被监禁于此,一切才有所改变。1999年,罗宾岛被列为世界文化遗产。现在人们都涌至这里观看曼德拉在他27年的牢狱生活中度过了18年的仅有5平米的牢房,劳伦斯?格林称之为“流放之岛”,这也是世界上最安全的监狱,只有一个隐蔽的小窗户用以放风。和其它地方只会重复一些陈词滥调的导游不同,罗宾岛上的导游是过去的政治犯,他们以独到的见解和游客分享他们的故事。

After Dark
暮色四合
When night falls, Long Street and the Sea Point area come alive with every kind of entertainment, and whether you want to spend an evening mellowing to full flavored jazz, take part in a drumming circle or strut incandescently at some chic nightclub, Cape Town delivers. Meanwhile, lovers of roulette wheels, cards and slot machines can get their fix at the Grand West Casino, which provides gambling and entertainment on larger-than-life scale.
当夜幕降临时,长街和海点地区就开始上演各式各样的娱乐活动,无论你是想整夜享受美妙的爵士,还是参加鼓社,抑或无拘无束地在一些别致的夜店里逍遥,开普敦都能让你得到满足。同时,喜欢轮盘赌用轮、扑克牌还有老虎机的人则会流连于大西部赌场,那里提供赌博以及一些不同寻常的表演。

The city has more restaurants and bars than you would need in a lifetime. Atlantic Seaboard areas of Clifton and Camps Bay serve up fine dining, but if its wholesome earthy flavors you crave, point your shoes in the direction of Mama Africa in Long Street for real African dishes and specialties like ostrich, crocodile and several varieties of game, all served with traditional stiff corn meal porridge and washed down with the Cape's world famous wines. For seafood, something Cape Town is known for, the Waterfront provides everything from succulent pink crayfish to sea-fresh line fish, while further out on the False Bay coast make a stop at Carla's in Muizenberg for peri-peri prawns that are talked about worldwide.
这个城市里有很多餐馆、酒吧。大西洋沿海地区的坎普斯湾海滩、克里夫顿海滩都提供美味的餐饮,但如果你在寻求健康朴素的风味美食,那就去长街上享受一顿真正的非洲美食吧,特色菜如鸵鸟、鳄鱼还有其它很多不同种类的野味都会附上一碗传统的老玉米粥,当然你还可以就着开普敦闻名世界的美酒一起享受,实在是妙不可言。至于海产品,开普敦也是可圈可点,从多汁的小龙虾到新鲜的海鱼,在滨海地区应有尽有,再远就是佛斯湾,你一定要去梅森堡的卡拉品尝一下世界闻名的鲜美对虾。


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